6/10/2023 0 Comments Honey extractorThen its around we go cutting about 1/8" every pass. Another hole is drilled in the material your cutting and a roofing nail is place through both holes. A hole is drilled in the Plexiglass one half the the diameter from the cutting bit. Note: My homemade circle cutter is just a Plexiglas scrap attached to the bottom of the router. When spinning out the honey it sticks to the sides of the bucket and moves slowly down but i found that while spinning the second side of the frame the honey would build up at the bottom and touch the bottom plate in the router slowing it down and i would have to wait until it drained off to finish spinning. Leave as much room as you buckets allow at the bottom also. Note: Spacing - Leave extra room between the plates the top tab only needs 1/8 or 3/16 to hold the top plate. ( I do foresee at least once dropping a screw into the vat of honey, Note: have extra screws ready.) Nuts, pony beads and longer screws were used to help in removing the screws. All the fixed pins were screwed into tight fitting holes and the two removable pins were dropped into loose fitting holes. The outside pins are removed and the frames are placed or removed and then the pins are replaced. it is held in by a wedge pushing it forward and two fixed pins on the inside and two removable pins on the outside. ( pins are #8 SS Screws) The top disk has the two corresponding holes and a slot cut out so the frame will side in. The bottom disk has two holes that the tabs on the frame fit into and four pins that hold the end (bottom) of each frame. (the Polyethylene i found in the scrap bin at a local box company and was just over 7" wide and another piece about 10" wide) (You could also use wood, an old cutting board or possible a laser cut metal piece.) This helped in spacing and alining the holes. Using a compass I drew a circle on some graph paper seven inches in diameter and placed the ends of frames parallel on my template. One with a basket would also be good for spinning the cappings.įollow the pictures as you read to help you follow along. The plates were cheep and easy to make so I might try several configurations. You can also fit three frames in a triangle that would fit in the bucket. I think that places the frames the wrong way as the honey cells would be parallel to the bucket walls, but many large extractors use that configuration (it eliminates having to flip the frames). You would need a bucket 14 inches across to fit the router the and the five gallon bucket is about 12. ![]() The inspiration for this, that I saw on U-Tube, They placed the frames in a line one on each side of the threaded rod. ![]() The spacing between the plates is just longer than the length of the frame minus the tabs. The rotor consists of two plates held in place on a threaded rod by (in order) a bolt, lock washer, fender washer, plate, fender washer, lock washer, bolt. If i could use that i would not need to buy a bucket. I noticed that a frame from my hive fit in a food grade bucket that i had for making beer. I wanted to spend as least money as possible (under the price of a store bought one 150.00+) and to use what I had on hand. The theory behind the extractor is to spin the frames of honey flinging the honey out and leaving the wax intact. Sorry if some of the pictures seem out of order I just went building the parts as i thought of them then wrote this trying to put them in a logical order. This project went together by solving one problem at a time in sort of a hap hazard way and getting a bit of luck every know and then. I couldn't afford a commercial honey extractor and borrowing the local clubs extractor seemed like a lot of work planning ahead and rushing to go get it extract and then return. I have been a city bee keeper for two years now and this will be my first harvest. One day all those bees would make some honey then I would have to make a honey extractor-anator and extract all the honey in the tri-state area.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |